Saturday, September 15, 2018

The Camino Primitivo

It's now been a month since I walked this spectacular, yet strenuous journey through Northern Spain. I've had this time to look back and reflect on how I felt during the pilgrimage.  There were so many ways that it differed from the Camino Frances, Camino Portuguese, Via di Francesco in Italy and the Shikoku 88 Temple pilgrimage in Japan.


This was the only one where I didn't travel alone.  I went with my friend Pam, and her companionship greatly enhanced my experience.  I knew this route would be the best one for Pam because she was not on a spiritual journey so much as a walk though the wonders of nature.The Primitivo wonderfully combines both the spiritual and the natural because the route is primarily mountain trails with far fewer cities than the other routes that I have walked. Unlike myself, Pam is very outgoing and makes new friends easily. Because of her friendly nature, I met many wonderful new friends along the way. But I still found myself walking alone somewhere behind Pam and other people because she was a slightly faster walker than I was. I was content to saunter along with my own thoughts and let them chatter about their lives, work, children and relationships.


I loved visiting the small chapels and majestic churches that dotted this original ancient pathway to Santiago de Compostela. Although I did stop and say a prayer for safety and peace many times along the way, I felt a lot different from the way I have felt on my other Caminos.  I particularly felt a different sense of spirituality than on my earlier walks.  I think on those I had more of a dedicated Roman Catholic focus.  But I have experienced a lot of spiritual confusion in the last couple of years. I've traveled so much all over the world and met incredible people from many religions.  I'm finding it difficult to cling to only one form of spirituality.  Of course I still love the primary Christian teachings, but I see the beauty of most of the other religions and philosophies that I have encountered as well.  I'm quite touched by the Buddhist philosophy of seeking to eliminate suffering from all living things, not just humans.  There has been incredible turmoil in my own country lately, as well as in my own Catholic Church.  It's difficult to get past the church cover-ups of priests abusing young children.  Even more distressing is the way I've been watching those who claim to be Christians lash out with hatred towards those who are different.  Whether it's those of other religions or those who practice different lifestyles.  I see so many Christians passing judgment against homosexuals, the poor, immigrants desperately seeking asylum in our country, and suffering refugees.  I can't grasp how this is the way to follow the teachings of Christ.



When I was a child my greatest fear was of Jesus, God, and Santa Claus!  I was taught at a very early age that those three entities were able to know everything I was doing, and even more frightening, everything I was thinking.  There were times that I was actually afraid of my own thoughts for fear of burning in some horrible fire somewhere in the depths of the earth.  My travels and exposure to other philosophies have helped me to form my own sense of evolving spirituality.


I was in awe of the beauty of the mountains along the Camino Primitivo.  Villages were frequently few and far between, but the trails were extraordinary. I delighted in feeling the crisp morning air sometimes shrouded in fog. My best friend once told me she believed in the church of the great outdoors.  I was feeling quite a bit of that sentiment as I wandered along those peaceful paths, and ancient Roman roads, among the flowers, rivers and trees.


It is impossible to not be in awe of the magnificence of the cathedrals and churches along the way.  The art of those times reflects the dedication people had for their religion.  But it's hard not to feel some sadness when I think about all the gold and riches that are in the churches, while so often the people are in a state of dire poverty.  I'm not sure Jesus would approve of all the riches, but there is no doubt the art is breathtakingly beautiful.  The Cathedral in Santiago was spectacular and awe-inspiring as always.


I'm sure I will one day walk a few more of the Camino trails and further contemplate the wonders of this world.


Friday, August 17, 2018

In Santiago de Compostela

First we met Giulia and Elisa from Italy for breakfast. Then we spent the day in Santiago wandering through the cathedral and visiting all the tiny shops. We went to the Pilgrim Mass at noon. And later met with many of the people we had walked with on the Camino Primitivo for a big dinner.

So many interesting and beautiful sights inside the magnificent cathedral. I am always in awe when inside the cathedral.

Thursday, August 16, 2018

Arrival in Santiago

We arrived in Santiago de Compostela today. So happy to have finally reached our goal successfully.

We left Salcedo at 7:11am and arrived at the cathedral around 3pm. We took our pictures then tracked the GPS to the pilgrim office. At first we were horrified at the incredible length of the line leading to the place where we were to receive our Compostelas. We heard someone say that it might take 3 hours. But I'm glad we didn't let that discourage us. Even though it did seem to take forever, we actually had our Compostelas in about an hour and a half.

Next we used the GPS to find our way about 1 kilometer to our hotel. We were both so glad to get out of our shoes. Mine are packed away in my backpack and I intend to stay in my sandals until I'm home again in Palmer.

We found a tiny cafe and had a couple of sandwiches. Now it's time to call it a day.

Wednesday, August 15, 2018

Melide to Salcedo

Today was much shorter than the last couple where we definitely exceeded the pain limits of our feet! Only 17.35 miles today and we were finally at our charming little hotel in Salcedo. We were the last people out of the albergue this morning. We didn't really hit the road until around 9am. My feet were very tired and Pam's blisters were killing her. So we took our time and actually had a bit of a relaxing day for a change.

We joined up with the Camino Frances in Melide so the number of peregrinos has increased significantly. We are quite thankful that we've been able to book our accommodations all the way through to our last night in Madrid before our flight home.

We will arrive in Santiago de Compostela tomorrow afternoon. It's such a thrill to finally stand before that amazing cathedral, especially knowing you have walked there for the last 200 miles.

Tuesday, August 14, 2018

Lugo to Melide

Today turned into another excruciatingly long day. We figured it would be 28 miles. But we got on a wrong trail and wasted the first two miles. But the good thing about that is that we ran into Ivana, from Croatia who had made the same mistake. So we walked many hours with her. We both had very sore feet when we finally stumbled into Melide. But we had a great spaghetti dinner and drank enough wine that I had some trouble remaining in the standing position while taking a shower at the albergue in Melide.

The trail was really too long for one day, at 32 miles. But we really had no choice because every place I called was full. We were lucky to find an albergue in Melide that actually took reservations. So we're sharing with 6 other people but I suspect I'll be asleep about two minutes after my head hits the pillow. We have a short day tomorrow and another the next day. Then we will reach Santiago.

So far the trip has been wonderful, sore feet and all.

Sunday, August 12, 2018

Fonsagrada to Lugo - Day 7

It has been extremely difficult to find accommodations because there are so many people walking the Caminos in August. We weren't able to book anything. So we just decided to book the same hotel we had booked for the following day in Lugo. We figured we would just walk as far as we could. Then take a taxi to Lugo, planning to return and finish the route the next morning. But we just kept on going and did both stages, which was about 54 kilometers. Our final mileage was 37.34 miles. It was well after 10pm when we finally arrived in Lugo. Even our hotel was on top of a very steep hill.

There are no words to describe the pain I am currently feeling in both feet. I don't have any blisters but they are agonizing!

It was a really lovely walk for the first 20 miles through rolling hills and mysterious forests. We passed through many little villages and enjoyed visiting with many of the new friends we have found along the way. But the last couple of hours were along a busy highway and we were very happy to finally reach our destination. 37 miles was a little too much for one day!

The Church in Vilabade

We stopped at the little cafe in Vilabade on our way to Lugo and the woman there gave us a tour of the church.